A few thoughts on Iceland
“We come from the land of the ice and snow. From the midnight sun where the hot springs flow”
Led Zeppelin Immigrant Song
I recently got back from a visit to Reykjavik. I thoroughly enjoyed it! Here are few takeaways:
1. The Iceland Airwaves music festival was the main excuse for the trip. A group of college friends had planned to go in 2020 (covid!). For the reschedule this year my friend Dan and I were the only two who signed on. He researched food. I took care of music. Perfect pairing. The bands were an eclectic mix. Highlights included Squid – a post-punk band with shades of Radiohead and a trumpet player who, on one song evoked Miles Davis’s ‘Bitches Brew; Mugison fronted by a Elías Guðmundsson who looked like Charlie Daniels and led a 10-piece bank in high energy mid-tempo rock; and composer/pianist Anna Gréta, an Icelandic artist based in Sweden did a wonderful dreamy set at the Frikirkjan church.
2. Downtown Reykjavik is charming with many low-rise wooden and sheet metal houses in rainbow colors. The streets are small and walkable and chock full of interesting bars, bakeries, and restaurants. Entirely walkable. Along with the official Airwaves events, there are free performances in record stores and restaurants. If you’re looking for vinyl, you’ve come to the right place. Our hotel, Canopy, has shelves of records in the lobby. You would borrow them and a portable record player. Yes, it’s expensive. You really don’t need cash unless you’re taking a bus.
4. On the flight over you’ll be pitched The Blue Lagoon and many lesser-known but equally pricey natural hot spring/spa experiences. They looked very exotic but after 10 minutes in a hot tub I’m good so the price was daunting. While on the Golden Circle tour, our guide Thoray (note her Norse god-derived name) told us about the popular local public swimming pools with multiple hot tubs. We enjoyed the Sundhöllin experience and got in for free as seniors! Having previously visited public baths in Budapest and Japan I’ve found them a great way to get a local cultural experience.
3. Fermented shark is on the menu in many places. You may be inclined, as Dan and I did, to give it a try - local delicacy and all. Our waitress said it had an unusual flavor. That should have been a giveaway. It has an aftertaste of lye.
